Insulated vinyl siding can reduce energy bills

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 I want to make my house as energy efficient as possible, but I don't have unlimited money to spend.
It is always a good idea to consider adding insulation to arEasy you are remodeling or replacing. These arEasy are exposed only during construction and represent a potentially lost opportunity.
Most houses built in the late '70s have 2-by-4 walls that allow about R-11 insulation. It is difficult to know exactly how much wall insulation you have, but R-11 was typical.
Since an R-11 batt is 31/2 inches thick, it already fills the wall cavity, and any additional insulation must be added outside the wall under the siding.

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There are several vinyl siding products and installation techniques. Some contractors leave the existing siding in place and install a thin layer of foam called fan-fold (1/4 to 3/8 inch) over the existing siding. This foam adds about an R-1. Other contractors remove the existing siding and install the new vinyl either directly on the wood sheathing or over a layer of foam.
"We install a product that has the vinyl siding molded directly over foam insulation," says Tony Charles, owner of  New Jersey Remodelers .COM. "We have found that we have fewer problems with the siding pulling away from the foam when the insulation is actually part of the siding."
Doug Chambers of Positive Solutions said he also likes vinyl siding products where the foam is integral.
"Our product has the foam on channels behind the siding. When the siding expands and contracts with heat and cold, it can move independently from the foam insulation. The siding doesn't bind and our customers like the solid feel of the foam behind the siding. Our foam adds about R-5 to the wall."
Another way to the insulation value of the wall is to install sheet foam insulation over the existing sheathing, under the vinyl. Depending on the type, an inch of foam will add between R-5 and R-7 to the wall. This will require special attention to trim detail around doors and windows because of the extra wall thickness.
Regardless of whether you add insulation, protect the wall from the elements before installing the vinyl siding.
"Installing a good weather barrier is also critical to a successful re-siding project," says Tony. "Since vinyl siding is not weather-tight like other siding products, we install a house wrap product over the existing sheathing. We then use a rubber ice and water shield around windows and doors to make sure there are no leaks into the wall."
 

Is it worth it?

Recently, several manufacturers have developed a thicker, more rigid version of vinyl siding. This siding uses a thicker foam board backing (R-4), shaped into a profile that matches the siding and adhered to the back. This thicker profile allows the siding to lie flush to the sub-wall or previous siding and better withstand impacts from hail, golf balls and baseballs, etc.
Does the addition of this foam really lower heating and cooling costs? Yes, it can. Between 15 percent and 25 percent of the heat loss through the walls of a traditional wood-framed home is through the solid wooden framing. Wall insulation reduces heat transfer, but the lower R-value of the framing itself can impact heating and cooling bills.
The foam insulation behind vinyl siding acts like a blanket over the framing and can cut heat transfer through the framing in half. This results in an 8 percent to 12 percent reduction in heat transfer through the wall. Depending on how much of your home's surface area is wall, this reduction can show up on your heating and cooling bill.

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Updated April 23 , 2008 , 8:00:00 AM.










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Fullback your home and make it:Fullback your Vinyl Siding make it:
More energy-efficient
Up to 5 times the “R”-value of conventional backers
Significant energy savings
Better looking longer
No denting, sagging and warping
Extreme weather protection
Perform Guard® repels termites and carpenter ants
More liveable
Permeable “vapor breather”—does not contribute to mold growth

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